No one says it quite like Louie Armstrong… what a wonderful world!
I quietly (at least by my standard) locked the door at 5:20 am and made my way down the smooth stone path to the beachfront.
Sunrise in Dumaguete did not disappoint! A smiling employee named King greeted me, explaining as he brought coffee that the view is even more stunning on a cloudless morning.
We arrived here the day before yesterday. We said our goodbyes to the Puerto Galera staff after one last exquisite specialty coffee and a group picture. The trip back to Manila for our domestic flight to Dumaguete was a repeat of the trip over. I easily stepped over the back of the boat and donned a life jacket for the 30-minute ride to Batangas, where the gangplank awaited me. Walking up that plank at 9 am seemed a bit more daunting than the afternoon walk down at arrival. I soon stepped back on solid ground and found my way to van number 2. Husband and three others joined me as the rest loaded onto van number 1.
Approximately 2 hours and a potty stop later, we arrived at Terminal 3 of the Manila airport. We joined our leader and the rest of the group and made our way inside. Atlantis booked our domestic flight as a group ticket. One cannot enter the Manila airport without a ticket, so we stayed together as we stepped in and walked the short distance to the Cebu Pacific ticket counter.
One thing that Missouri and the Philippines have in common is construction. We laughed on the way to the airport about our “state flower” blooming on the highway. The airport is undergoing what the locals describe as a much-needed remodel. That overhaul meant that the “better” food options moved to level 2 since our guide’s last visit. After a walk and an elevator ride, we relaxed and enjoyed a bite to eat before heading to security.
When one visits a foreign country, one is the new fish in a new pond. I did a lot of research on luggage requirements and spent a week before leaving home in a cycle of pack, weigh, and re-pack. My husband thought I was reading too much into the requirements and didn’t hesitate to say so. By the time we left Manila, he changed his tune. We personally had no problem getting through with our luggage, but we observed first-hand how strictly the airline here holds to its luggage standards.
The Philippine version of TSA was much more relaxed than in the United States. The personnel gave instructions in normal conversational tones, with no raised voices. We went through with our shoes on and our quart liquid bags in our luggage. Other than our bags, the only items we had to put in the bins were our tablets. A smiling officer directed each of us through the scanner. Within about 5 minutes we made our way to the gate, where the agents directed us to a bus. After what seemed a very short drive, we climbed a flight of steps onto an outdoor walkway for boarding and took our seats.
The 1-hour flight to Dumaguete was comfortable, the flight crew friendly and efficient. Refreshments were served only to those who wished to purchase. As we left Manila, I got my first good view of the size of that city. The scenery once we reached altitude revealed the beauty of the Philippine islands.
The seaside airport in Dumaguete is very small, as is the runway. Our skilled pilot landed us safely and soon asked us to disembark. We walked across the tarmac to the one arrival lobby, where Atlantis’ transport personnel greeted us. They quickly helped us locate our checked bags on the single carousel and loaded them onto two vans. As we waited, we watched an adorable little girl walk by, her mother holding one hand and a smiling security guard holding the other.
The drive to the Atlantis location in Dumaguete provides a view of life in the region. The coastal city is the capital of the Negros Oriental province. Dumaguete is the largest city in the province by population and the smallest by land area. I appreciated the opportunity to take pictures over the approximately 45-minute drive.
We spotted an Atlantis sign as our van made a left turn onto a winding alleyway. My husband and I were immediately reminded of our first trip abroad, to Puerta Vallarta, Mexico. We wondered during that bus ride through the Mexican countryside what we had gotten ourselves into.
We’ve learned over the years that if one rides long enough, there is likely a gem at the end of the road. As we walked from the van to the restaurant, we were again reminded of a previous journey. Twice in Costa Rica we stayed at a beautiful property at the foot of the Arenal volcano. As in Arenal, the rooms at Atlantis Philippines – Dumaguete are connected by winding pathways of flowers and vegetation.
As promised, the resort is right on the ocean. The beach is black sand and rock but walkable at low tide. The view any time of the day is absolutely stunning.
I am without doubt what one would call a landlubber, but I love the ocean. As I sit at a table and write, I take in the panoramic view and the music of the waves. I can see the distant silhouette of our group’s dive boat making its way to Apo Island as I watch another group of divers anchored closer to shore here. A trio of divers at the next table are enjoying conversation over coffee and juice. Birds fly by, and one climbs the steps into the edge of the restaurant before taking off.
The Dumaguete location is newer construction, so the accommodations are more modern and hotel-like. The restaurant here follows the same menu as the one in Puerto Galera. The food is delicious and the portions huge. The only differences are no Mongolian “build your stirfry” option, and no Ogie to add stunning artwork to the specialty coffees. He explained this as we sat at breakfast our last morning in Puerto Galera, lamenting, “I tried to train them… it didn’t work.”
Although there are some steps here to the upper-level rooms, they are far fewer than we navigated at Puerto Galera. There are steps from the restaurant to beach level which are easily navigated, and steps on the walkway by which the divers access the boats.
The divers in our group are excited by what they have seen so far. One saw her first-ever seahorse on the very first dive. The underwater photographers have returned with some amazing pictures. Dumaguete is known for muck and macro diving. The creatures here are mostly tiny, but stunning. The group is diving Apo Island today, known for its sea turtles and vibrant coral reefs. Tomorrow they will snorkel with whale sharks at Oslob.
The temperature in Dumaguete is warm, but doesn’t seem as stifling as in Puerto Galera. Yesterday was overcast, but today is bright and sunny. The vegetation here offers plenty of shade, and I can see movement as a breeze blows through the leaves. I spent much of the day sitting at a table, writing and enjoying the ocean view. I took a break morning and afternoon to return to the room and rest in the air conditioning.
The amenities are the same in Dumaguete as in Puerto Galera. We decided to take advantage of laundry service here so that we have some fresh clothes for the trip home. I was also able to do a bit of laundry in our sink. The biggest challenge I had with those few handwashed pieces was getting them dry. Each room has a bamboo drying rack on the patio, but the humidity makes for long drying time. I saw several racks moved out into the sunshine on my way back to the room this afternoon, no doubt by divers who need gear to dry for packing.
Although this is the longest trip we have taken both in distance and duration, the time has passed more quickly than I anticipated. Soon we will start our long journey home. As my hands pack my bags my heart packs the memories of a beautiful country with wonderful, welcoming people.
And I think to myself… what a wonderful world.
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